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Friday, February 01, 2008

 
Polarizzazione
Il bipolarismo fatica a radicarsi in politica, ma funziona alla grande nei consumi

Il Foglio - 31 gennaio 2008


Gli esperti la chiamano tecnicamente “polarizzazione dei consumi”. In pratica accade questo: la crisi economica in atto, i salari bassi e la scarsa fiducia nel futuro si traducono in una forte flessione dei consumi da parte delle famiglie. Tale flessione però non è generalizzata, ma colpisce principalmente prodotti e servizi di “fascia media”, i prodotti alimentari e in generale i bisogni fisiologici e di sicurezza della piramide maslowiana.

L’infelicità dei cittadini italiani, così come l’ha dipinta il New York Times, trova libero sfogo su consumi consolatori, con logiche d’acquisto che variano dal “vado all’outlet o al discount e compro di tutto purché a basso prezzo” al “cerco conforto nell’acquisto di un ennesimo nuovo prodotto della Apple (per i maschietti) e dell’ultima borse Chloè (per le signorine). Ma questa dinamica è diffusa anche nel resto dell’Europa, nella gran parte dell’Occidente. Quest’anno a New York il commercio del black friday (il venerdì post Thanksgiving, giorno eletto per lo shopping) è stato sostenuto da grandi magazzini del superlusso come Saks e dal solito Wal Mart a scapito di catene middle price come Gap e Target.

Questa bizzarra e schizofrenica redistribuzione dei consumi è il nuovo driver che ha sconvolto e rimesso in discussione le politiche di mercato delle grosse corporation costrette e modificare in corsa il proprio portafoglio prodotti e le partnership strategiche. Prodotti e servizi low price chiamano prodotti di super lusso. Nei piani alti degli uffici di Stoccolma di Hennes & Mauritz – più nota come H&M, la catena di grandi magazzini finanziati dalla “Chiesa di Svezia” – c’è la fila di stilisti e delle grandi firme della moda e del lusso per poter marcare una collezione “limited edition” da vendere in pochi vendita degli oltre1900 sparsi in tutto il globo. Il primo a provarci era stato Karl Lagerfeld, ma il clamoroso trionfo si è avuto con le collaborazioni con firme più update quali Stella McCartney, Victor & Rolf e Roberto Cavalli. Lo scorso 7 novembre, ad esempio, i 200 negozi H&M sono stati presi d’assalto e l’animalesca collezione limitata per donna e per uomo di Cavalli è andata esaurita nel giro di poche ore. “Lusso accessibile” è, in questo caso, la parola e il concetto chiave. La stessa dinamica si presenta non solo in operazioni mordi & fuggi, ma influenza anche fusioni e acquisizioni a livello strategico. Poche settimane fa sono usciti i dati dei primi nove mesi del 2007 relativi al grosso polo francese del lusso PPR e che ha tra i propri marchi in portafoglio Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent e Bottega Veneta. Nonostante gli ottimi risultati di questi premium brands, la performance più brillante è stata di Puma, il marchio sportivo recentemente acquisito e rilanciato dalla famiglia Pinault e che ha contribuito alla crescita delle vendite del gruppo per oltre il 20 per cento. Anche da un punto di vista squisitamente estetico, il mondo del lusso sta acquistando nuova linfa vitale grazie all’impollinazione di culture, stili e codici che vengono “dal basso”: dal rap allo street style, dal mondo dello sport a quello dei fumetti giapponesi (il restyling di Louis Vuitton è stato affidato all’artista manga Takashi Murakami). Di pochi giorni fa è invece la notizia di un’alleanza strategica tra Tiffany & Co. con il gruppo svizzero Swatch per il rilancio in grande stile del marchio simbolo del lusso newyorkese nel mercato dell’orologeria. In pratica Swatch creerà una nuova divisione con cui potrà utilizzare il marchio Tiffany per realizzare una nuova linea di orologi con una politica di marketing come al solito piuttosto aggressiva.
I casi appena citati sembrerebbero tipici da manuale di management in uno scenario di congiuntura negativa: le aziende del lusso al fine ultimo di sostenere il proprio business di premium price acquisiscono o si alleano con realtà che realizzano prodotti a basso prezzo e a basso margine ma ad alto volume che svolgono il ruolo della “mucca da mungere” e che, in pratica, finanziano i prodotti di alta gamma e immagine. Ma la cosa interessante è che il principio funziona anche all’inverso: sono cioè i business low price che cercano alleanze strategiche con i prodotti di lusso. E’ il caso ad esempio della linea aerea Ryan Air: i voli low cost hanno di fatto aumentato il volume di affari turistici delle capitali europee, ma a beneficiarne maggiormente sono state le catene alberghiere a 4 o a 5 stelle. Il ragionamento del viaggiatore tipo quindi è “risparmio sul volo ma largheggio sull’hotel”. Quindi è la stessa Ryan Air (o la Easy Jet) che cerca di stringere alleanze strategiche con gli Hilton e gli Hyatt per proporre le loro offerte sul sito della compagnia aerea.
E i poli continuano ad attrarsi.

Comments:
quindi ci dobbiamo aspettare un MacPeck Deluxe?
interessante il tuo articolo. Mi chiedo se questa dinamica si ritirerà nel caso in cui passasse il momento di crisi economica. Se passerà, chiaro.
cheers
tino
 
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